"As early as 1885," notes
Joel Kotkin, "... Jews, mostly from Germany, owned 97% of all the garment factories.
By the early twentieth century Jewish domination of the 'rag trade' [in
America] was virtually complete, with Jews accounting for between 50 and 80 per
cent of all haymakers, furriers, seamstresses, and tailors in the
country." [KOTKIN, p. 48-49] By 1915 the "clothing trade" was
America's third largest industry, behind only steel and oil. [LEACH, p. 93]
"Jews largely created the American clothing production industry, replacing
homemade clothes and tailor-made clothing." [SILBIGER, S., 2000, p. 46]
"Jews," says Milton
Plesur, "were the chief source of operatives for the ready-made clothing
industry, but by the 1920s, they constituted less than half of the operatives
and by mid-century less than 28 percent. In the meantime, Jews have risen to
management and ownership, thus achieving almost exclusive control of the entire
wearing apparel industry." [PLESUR, M., 1982, p. 161] The modern bra, for
instance, was a Jewish marketing invention, promoted by the Maiden Form
Brassiere company owned by William and Ida Rosenthal with Enid Bissett, founded
in 1923. Likewise, the suits of "Hattie Carnegie [born Herietta
Kanengeiser] led a fashion empire that set the pace of American fashion for
nearly three decades." [HYMAN, p. 207]
In more recent history, Jews have
congregated in, and dominated, the "fashion" aspects of the clothing
industry -- founding everything from Guess, Gitano, Jordache, Calvin Klein, and
Levi-Strauss jeans to Ralph [Lifshitz] Lauren cosmetics. (The Jordache and
Guess companies -- both founded by recent Jewish immigrants to the United
States -- were involved in particularly nasty lawsuits and underhand
unscrupulous maneuvers against each other. The companies' manipulations are
documented in a 1992 volume entitled: Glamour, Greed, and Dirty Tricks in the
Fashion Industry: The Bizarre Story of Guess v. Jordache. In 1985, one of the
brothers who owns Jordache, Joe Nakash, was elected in Israel to be the
president of the Boys' Town Jerusalem Society. "This is the message I want
to convey to those who care about Israel's future," Nakash said,
"That in addition to providing its students with a superb education, Boys'
Town builds and develops their character, their conviction and their commitment
to their homeland." [JEWISH WEEK, 5-3-85, p. 22]
At Levis-Strauss, in 1982 Robert
Haas "became the fifth generation family member to run the company (his
father, Walter A. Haas Jr. was CEO from 1958 to 1976." [MUNK, p. 36]
Warren Hirsch, president of Murjani International initiated the blue jean craze
in recent years with the designer label "Gloria Vanderbilt." Alfred
Slaner headed Kayser-Roth into the 1980s, "the largest clothing
manufacturing establishment in the world." [GREENBERG, M., p. 73]
French-born Maurice Bidermann (born
Maurice Zylberberg) "was the mastermind of one of the largest [clothes]
manufacturing networks in the world, with thirteen thousand workers in
thirty-four factories. Producer of Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent suits,
his plants in France, the United States and Hong Kong churned out nearly $200
million in designer duds each year ... He was the older brother of Regine, the
jet-set nightclub owner of New Jimmy's and Regine's, in Paris and New
York." [GAINES/CHURCHER, p. 196] The president of Bidermann's companies in
the U.S.? Also Jewish. Michael Zelnick.
"Of all the monarchs in the
garment industry," note Steven Gaines and Sharon Churcher, "... Carl
Rosen [of Puritan Fashions; Chief Financial Officer: Sam Rubenstein] was the
biggest and richest ... Rosen owned two Rolls-Royces, both painted gold, and
the one he kept at his Palm Springs estate once belonged to the queen mother of
England ... Reportedly ... Carl supplied hookers and dirty weekends to Las
Vegas for the buyers." [GAINES/CHURCHER, p. 216]
"The [Dan] Millstein name [of coats
and suits] had become familiar to every American household ... [Seymour] Fox
was in a league of his own in the fashion business, a mogul even wealthier than
Millstein. Fox was known not only for his exquisite, high-priced fashions but
for his grand lifestyle, replete with stretch limousines and a beautiful
mistress, the Women's Wear Daily columnist Carol Bjorkman."
[GAINES/CHURCHER, p. 49, 56]
In the 1960s and 1970s, Hartmarx
"became the largest manufacturer and retailer of men's tailored
clothing." The company, originally called Hart, Schaffner and Marx, was
founded in the late 1800s by Harry and Marcus Marx. Relative Joseph Schaffner
joined as a co-partner later. [SONNENFELD, J., 1988, p. 167] In Canada, Steven
Shein owns E&J Manufacturing Ltd., "one of Canada's largest wool coat
makers." [KUITENBROWER, P., 4-1-2000, p. D1] Sigi Rabinowicz, an Orthodox
Jew, is the CEO of Israel-based Tefron, "a major force in lingerie."
[MCLEAN, B., 9-18-2000, p. 60] "Israel Myers -- son of a tailor --
originated the London Fog raincost." [KRISCHNER, S., 9-14-00, p. 11]
In 1995 another Jewish garment
mogul, Calvin Klein, who had a serious problem with cocaine and Quaaludes over
the years [GAINES/CHURCHER, p. 208], was condemned by a range of parent and
social welfare groups for an advertising campaign featuring images by Jewish
photographer Stephen Meisel. Adolescent models, notes Henry Giroux, were
photographed "in various stages of undress, poised to offer both sexual
pleasures and the fantasy of sexual availability ... Angry critics ... called
the images suggestive and exploitive, and condemned Calvin Klein for using
children as sexual commodities. Other critics likened the ads to child
pornography." [GIROUX, p. 16-17] This was an old theme for Klein. Earlier suggestive
commercials with and adolescent Brooke Shields had garnered condemnation from a
variety of groups, including a feminist group called Women Against Pornography.
(Klein's key partner in his initial years was fellow Jewish entrepreneur Barry
Schwartz. Another Jewish friend, described as Klein's "mentor," was
Nicholas de Gunzburg, the "fur and fabric editor" of Vogue magazine).
[GAINES/CHURCHER, p. 97-98]
The Guess company (founded by the
Jewish Marciano brothers, who share control of the firm with the Nakash family,
who are also Jewish) has also followed the same advertising strategy to sell
jeans. "Media Watch," noted the Los Angeles Times in 1990, "a
feminist group in Santa Cruz, has called for a boycott of Guess, charging that
its ads demean women, integrating sex with violence." [SCHACTER, J., 1990,
p. D1]
Elsewhere, Estelle Sommers founded
the Capezio dancewear brand, Ann Klein [originally Hannah Golofski] has become
a widely recognized "designer" brand, as has Donna Karan and her DKNY
label. Isaac Mizrahi and Tommy Hilfiger are other famous Jewish fashion brands,
as is that of the Iranian-Jewish mogul of perfume and self-promotion, Bijan
(Pakzad), also known as the "designer of what's probably the world's most
expensive menswear." [DORFMAN] Rudi Gernreich and John Weitz are other
Jews who have been prominent fashion designers. Designer Arnold Scassi's last
name is Isaacs (his original surname) spelled backwards. Kenneth Cole
(originally: Kenneth Cohen) developed popular lines of shoes, belts, and leather
jackets. Judith Lieber manufacturers luxury handbags.
Liz Claiborne founded her company
with her Jewish husband Arthur Ortenberg and Leonard Boxer. She retired in 1989
whereupon Jerome Chazen became chairman of the firm. Other prominent executives
in the company are Harvey Falk and Jay Margolis. In 1988, Nicholas Coleridge
listed the American "power buyers" (those who buy for stores) of the
fashion world. Most of the people listed are Jewish, and a huge percentage of
the stores are Jewish-owned:
"Daria Retain, fashion director
of Neiman Marcus; Ellin Saltzman, director of fashion and product development
at Saks Fifth Avenue; James Fowler and Mary Talbot, vice-president and design
buyer of Jacobsons Stores, Michigan; Kaye von Bergen, designer buyer of
Bendel's; Lois Ziegler and Sue Bicksler, fashion directors of J.C. Penney;
Bernie Ozer, vice-president of the Associated Merchandising Corporation;
Barbara Weiser of Charivari; Barbara Warner, formerly of Barneys, who virtually
single-handedly turned the store into an upbeat designer terminus; Lynne
Manulis, president of Marthas; Joan Weinstein, president of Ultimo; James
Sullivan, fashion director of Jordan Marsh; Missy Lomonaco, fashion director of
Bonwit Teller; Betty Hahn, designer buyer of Garfinkels, Washington; Jean
Navin, vice-president and fashion director of Lord & Taylor; Kal
Ruttenstein, vice-president and fashion director of Bloomingdales; Terry
Melville, fashion director of Macy's; and Sal Ruggerio of Marshall Field,
Chicago." [COLERIDGE, p. 259]
In 2000, the National Post noted the
heart of the garment district in Montreal, Canada -- the Jewish center of
Chabenel Street. The article addressed the bribery of store buyers by clothing
makers and its long tradition in the Jewish community. (In Yiddish: "Az
men shmert nit, fort men nit." -- If you don't bribe, you don't ride).
Kickbacks, noted Doug Robinson, a Canadian fraud squad officer is "a dirty
secret of the industry." [KUITENBROWER, P., 4-1-2000, p. D1]
Elsewhere, Israeli-born Elia
"Tahari is among the most respected names in department and specialty
stores." [HOOD, p. 1E] In California Severin Wunderman's company, the
Severin Group ($500 million a year in sales), remains "the sole
manufacturer, marketer, and distributor of Gucci timepieces and Fila sports
watches." These products' retail cost run between $225 and $14,000 apiece.
"The word 'demanding' is repeatedly used to describe [Severin]. In
addition to shouting and breaking things, he has tossed more than one cellular
phone out the window of his chauffeur-driven Rolls Royce." [HOWLETT, p.
E1]
The head of the French luxury
jewelry firm, Cartier, is also Jewish: Alain Dominique Perrin. In 1996, during
a visit to Israel, he announced "plans to donate an unspecified percentage
of the revenue from the sale of $10 million worth of jewelry to WIZO [the World
International Zionist Organization]." [CASHMAN, 1996, p. 14] Kenneth Jay
Lane, "the fake jewelry king," [HORYN, C., 12-12-99, sec. 9, p. 1] is
also Jewish. Nudie Cohen, head of Nudie's, was the "costume designer who
pasted Nashville in rhinestones in the 1940s and '50s." [LONGINO, M.,
9-8-2000] He supplied the Hollywood/Las Vegas cowboy image to people like Roy
Rogers and Gene Autry. Others fitting such stars were "Nathan Turk and his
East coast counterpart Rodeo Ben (Bernard Lichtenstein), both Eastern European
immigrants" whose "clothes brought western wear into its
heyday." [MOORE, B., 2001, p. E3] Adrian's was the logo of Adrian
Goldberg, a famous dress designer for Hollywood in the 1930s and '40s. Sidney
Toledano is today's president and CEO of Christian Dior.
The Chanel company, which makes
"the most expensive perfume in the world," was founded by non-Jew Co
Co Chanel, but built to power by the Jewish Wertheimer brothers. As the London
Independent notes: "In 1924 [Chanel] sold 90 per cent of the rights to
Chanel No. 5 to Pierre Wertheimer, who, with his brother Paul, owned Bourjois,
the largest cosmetics company in France ... They bought out Chanel -- couture
house, perfume and all -- in 1954." [JOBEY, L., 11-27-90, p. 12] Feeling
that "she was being cheated" by the Wertheimers, Chanel had sued them
in 1934. [MOUBRAY, J., 2-10-98, p. 18]
Elsewhere in France, in 1995
Jean-Pierre Meyer became Deputy Chairman of the L'Oreal cosmetics giant,
suceeding Andre Bettencourt (whose father founded the firm). Meyer, who is
Jewish, is married to Bettencourt's daughter.
[
http://www.klarsfeld.org/press/95/us_urged/us_urged.htm ]
Diane von Furstenberg (original
name: Diane Simone Michelle Halfin) founded a "fragrance and fashion
empire." Stanley Kohlenberg, head of Revlon's domestic Group III, was
"recognized as one of the premiere marketing men in the fragrance
industry." [GAINES/CHURCH, p. 182] Samuel Rubin founded the Faberge perfume
company. Max Factor built a cosmetics empire, including waterproof mascara and
long-lasting lipstick. Helena Rubenstein sold "beauty and royalty."
"The names [of Jewish entrepreneurs] Helena Rubenstein and Estee Lauder
[born Josephine Esther Menzer] became virtual synonyms for cosmetics in the
twentieth century." [HYMAN, p. 27] Adrien Arpel opened 500 skin care
salons across America. "A legend in the cosmetics industry.... although
Arpel is not a formally observant woman, she is very conscious of her Jewish identity."
[HYMAN, p. 67-68] Vidal Sassoon built an business empire based on hair care.
(Sassoon, funder of a research unit on anti-Semitism at an Israeli university,
was the recipient of the first American Jewish Congress "Beauty Hall of
Fame" award). Non-Jew Grace Mirabella, for 17 years the editor of Vogue
magazine, notes that "all the models, actresses, and photographers of
London" hung out a Sassoon's hair studios. [MOIRABELLA, G., 1995, p. 127]
Jack Rosen is chairman of the Hazel
Bishop cosmetics company (as well as being the CEO and chairman of Continental
Health Affiliates and the CEO of Infu-Tech, two major health care
corporations). [PR NEWSWIRE, 3-13-98] Shirley Polykoff at Clairol introduced to
America her advertising catchphrases: "'Does she or doesn't she?,' 'If I
have only one life to lead, let me live it as a blonde,' and 'Hate that gray,
wash it away.'" [BAER, p. 158] The Gottleib family founded the Gottex
swimmear line. Marvin Winkler (philanthropist of an Orthodox Chabad
"Immigrant Camp" in Hollywood) and Jay Schottenstein bought the
Gotcha surf wear company in 1996 (also including the MCD and GirlStar brands.
Adam Tihany is one of America's best known upscale "restaurant
designers," his work includes Manhattan's Le Cirque 2000. Maurice Stein
owns Burbank, "one of the world's largest suppliers of cosmetics, skin,
and hair products to the entertainment industry." [WILGOREN, p. A1]
Israeli-born Gil Gamlieli is co-owner of "Manhattan's celebrated Gil
Gamlieli Beauty Group." [EPSTEIN, M., p. T6] Even a Satmar hasidic Jew,
Victor Jacobs, is CEO and Chairman of Allou Health and Beauty Care.
Chicago's Irving Harris became a
millionaire with his ToniHome Permanent. Mr. Blackwell -- creator of the
world's "worst" and "best" dressed lists, is a Jewish
fashion designer who changed his name from Richard Selzer to Dick Ellis to,
lastly, Blackwell. Britain's Trevor Spero founded the Flame model agency and
Scene magazine, which covers the fashion industry.
New York's Fashion Institute of
Technology "grew from the dream of a small group of successful Eastern
European Jewish immigrant manufacturers ... [who ultimately created] a thriving
college of art and design, business and technology. [NEWSDAY, p. A39] FIT's
chairman of the board was still in Jewish hands in 1998, in the person of Edwin
Goodman. "By the late 1930s," notes Henry Feingold, "Jews could
be also found in the creative departments of the full-service advertising
agencies as the experts in marketing surveys, motivation research, and the
psychology of consumption." [FEINGOLD, p. 104]
Brett Goldberg sells Dead Sea mud as
a skin lotion. His business (Ahava's hand cream) took off when he met and
married Eve Berenblum, head of Sak's cosmetics department. The American-born
Goldberg has dual American-Israeli citizenship and volunteered for the Israeli
army. [BERMAN/SANDERS, 1-11-99] Sydell Miller and her husband Arnold started
Matrix Essential, a hair care and skin products company.
Sidney Kimmel heads the Jones
Apparel Group; its clothing lines include Jones New York, Evan-Picone, Saville,
NineWest shoe stores, and movie production interests. The CEO of the Jo Ann
Stores chain (1065 stores nationwide; also sometimes called Cloth World and Jo
Ann Fabrics) is Alan Rosskamm. Co-founded by his father, the firm's 1997 sales
alone were $975 million.
Bob Sockolow is the president and
CEO of San-Francisco based Rochester Big and Tall Clothing. The founders of the
Banana Republic clothing retail chain were Bill Rosenszweig, and Mel and
Patricia Ziegler. The Eddie Bauer outdoor clothing empire is headed of course
by Eddie Bauer; he is also Jewish. Jeffrey Swartz is the president and CEO of
the Timberland shoe and boot firm.
In 1997 The Limited Inc. (Leslie
Wexner, CEO) was accused by the AFL-CIO of subcontracting garment work in the
Dominican Republic that paid workers $21 for an 80-hour work week. The
Limited's 3,000 outlets and brands include Abercrombie and Fitch, Structure,
Express, Lane Bryant, Henri Bendel, Bath & Body Works, and Victoria's
Secret, among others. [FORWARD, 5-30-97, p. 1] (Abercrombie and Fitch's 2001
summer catalogue attracted a coalition of groups as diverse as the National
Organization for Women and Concerned Christian Americans in protest. The
catalogue was condemned as "soft porn." An earlier A&F catalogue
-- Naughty or Nice -- was "denounced" by the Michigan attorney
general's office.") [CRARY, D., 6-22-01]
In 1986, Linda Wachner, also Jewish,
president of Max Factor, U.S. Division, maneuvered a hostile takeover of the
Warnaco Group, effectively seizing control of much of the women's underwear
market (including the brand names Warners, Olga, Valentino, Scaagi, Ungaro, Bob
Mackie, and Fruit of the Loom). Wachner was henceforth the CEO of Wanaco,
"one of the highest paid and most powerful businesswomen in America in the
1990s." [HYMAN, p. 27]
Elsewhere, Howard Gross is the CEO of Miller's
Outpost's chain of 220 stores; Robert Siegel became the CEO of the Stride Rite
store chain in 1993. Donald Fisher is founder and CEO of the giant clothes
retailer The Gap. He too is Jewish, [ALTMAN-OHR, A., 4-14-2000, p. 64A] as is
Millard Drexler, another top executive at the company.
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